#APS C FRAME FULL#

When you put a FF lens on an APS-C body, all you're doing is a crop of the center region, it's exactly as if you had kept the FF image and then kept only the center. The 24mm f1.8 APS-C remains a 24mm and it remains f1.8, on APS-C or on FF bodies.īut when talking about equivalence, then you multiply or divide both the focal length and the aperture by the crop factor, not just one of them. The focal length and the DOF don't change either. Personally I dont care about the claims from some youtube vlogger (guru) type of person but this is really misleading information as an f-stop is just that, no matter the body it is used on. I have tested lots of (full frame) lenses (copies) on different sensor sized bodies and any significant difference in f-stops I surely would have noticed. To my knowledge the f-stop does not change with sensor size, only the focal length and therefor the DOF as well. This is the very first time I've ever heard about an aperture difference, per lens, between different sensor sizes. If you are asking about DOF, you need to multiply both focal length and apperture by 1.5 (precisely it's 1.53), see eg.: to get similar results.įor example, for the same DOF as FF 24mm f11, you need to use roughly apsc 16mm f6.7-f8. Depending on focal lenght and composition, this can be enough for even sharpness across the frame, sometimes is better to go to f11, but I wouldn't go further on apsc. If you check apsc sharpness tests in general, the best sharpness over the whole image you get around f5.6-f8. I assume, that your target is to get the most DOF without compromising picture quality because of difraction. If you go from FF to APS-C, then you divide by 1.5, so if you use a FF camera with an 85mm f1.8 lens and you want the same look on your APS-C camera, then you must find a 56mm f1.2 APS-C lens. Even the light gathering will be very similar. This means that if you use a 36mm f2.7 lens on a FF camera, it will have very similar DOF and angle of view, to your 24mm f1.8 APS-C lens on an APS-C camera. So, when you have a 24mm f1.8 APS-C, it's equivalent to a 36mm f2.7 FF. It works for all formats, including m43 (2x crop factor), APS-C (1.5x for Sony/Fuji, 1.6x for Canon), medium format (they have a 0.xx crop factor) etc. It is the same as the base lens.įor equivalence, you must multiply both the aperture size and the focal length by the crop factor.

The depth-of-field of the projected images is constant. When you do this the proportion of out-of-focus blur to in focus sharpness is not changed. The focal length is reduced and the relative aperture is increased. A smaller, brighter version of the image is projected.

The opposite happens with the focal reducer. The focal length is increased and the relative aperture is reduced. The same image is projected, but it is larger and dimmer. Get a prime lens and a teleconverter and a focal reducer. I find it helpful to forget about cameras and just play with lenses.

If you want an image with a certain depth-of-field and a certain angle-of-view, aperture used will need to change with the capture size. The amount of light stuff is per area so it doesn't vary by capture size.ĭepth-of-field depends on several things. There's two things aperture controls: the amount of light and the depth-of-field. You can also take multiple exposures at f/8 at different distances of the image and combine them in post by focus stacking if you’d like everything in focus. Each lens is different so I suggest either testing it out yourself or read or watch something that explains how the lens performs. Most lenses are typically their sharpest around f/8 and start to lose detail around f/11 due to a phenomenon called diffraction. lolĪnyway, back to the original question. This is why you’ll get a larger depth of field if you use an equivalent focal length lens.

#APS C FRAME FULL#

APS-C and M4/3 cameras use a smaller focal length to get the equivalent focal length of a full frame camera.

(Thanks, Tony Northrup…) For all intensive purposes, f/8 is f/8 is f/8. That’s some new age mumbo jumbo to confuse the masses. They are all Full Frame users.īut I just read that for APSC we need to multiple the aperture by 1.5 (sony)? So when I set my aperture to F11 on a crop sensor im actually shooting at almost F16? In which case F8 for apsc would equate to F11 for Full frame?Ĭan anyone with experience with both systems shed some light on this topic? Watching abundant youtube videos on landscape photography, everyone mentions shooting between F8-F16 to get the most DOF. So I've read 2 different schools of thought on Aperture on APSC sensors.

Aps c frame